Rare Hermès · Curated by Jane
Hermès Kelly 20 Retourne Vert Cru and Orange H Gulliver Gold Hardware
A two-tone vintage Kelly 20 pairing Vert Cru body panels with Orange H handle, sangles, and shoulder strap, all in Gulliver calfskin.
The object record
- Condition
- 2 – Excellent
- Material
- Gulliver
- Made in
- France
- Color
- Vert Cru and Orange H
- Metallic finish
- Gold
- Dimensions
- L 20 × H 14 × D 8 cm | L 7.9" × H 5.5" × D 3.1"
- Includes
- Lock, Keys, Clochette and Strap
- Care
- Protect from humidity, prolonged light and extreme heat, and seek an appropriate assessment before treatment. Care Guide
The story behind the Kelly
Created in the 1930s by Robert Dumas as a women's bag with straps: a trapezoid with two triangular gussets, a cutout flap, a handle and two side straps. It took the Kelly name in 1956, when Grace Kelly made it famous. Sellier construction keeps the seams on the outside for a more defined outline; Retourné construction turns them inside for softer edges. The leather does not decide the construction: Box calf Kellys are recorded in both.
Discover Hermès Kelly BagsVert Cru is a bright yellow-green produced primarily in the 1990s; Orange H is the house's signature orange, the same shade used on Hermès packaging. The two colors share enough warmth to read as a coordinated palette rather than a contrast exercise. Gulliver takes both dyes at high saturation, which is why neither color reads muted at this age.
Gulliver is a smooth, fine-grained calfskin Hermès later discontinued and replaced with Swift. This is the vintage Kelly 20 format, taller and deeper in proportion than the modern Mini Kelly, with a longer rolled top handle and fuller silhouette. Gold hardware ties the two warm tones together.
Collector's Insight:
Gulliver was discontinued, and Vert Cru left the palette in the same era, which puts a retired color on a retired leather in proportions the current Mini Kelly no longer uses.
Resale Insight:
Vintage examples trade as standalone collectibles rather than against current production, since neither the leather nor the color can recur. Smooth leathers show their history plainly, so a Gulliver in excellent condition at this age is uncommon.
Condition, defined +
Every piece is graded on the JANEFINDS five-tier scale: 1 Pristine, 2 Excellent, 3 Very Good, 4 Good, 5 Vintage, Well-Loved. Each tier is defined in writing in The Condition Guide.
The JANEFINDS standard +
Every piece is authenticated in-house and individually inspected, and ships with a JANEFINDS Certificate of Authenticity.
Delivery and payment +
Domestic: FedEx Direct Signature, no additional fee unless noted. International: FedEx International Priority; duties and taxes may apply at destination. We do not ship to P.O. boxes. Orders ship within two business days of inventory and payment confirmation; contact us for expedited service.
Payment: Credit-card acceptance and payment arrangements are determined on a case-by-case basis. Contact JANEFINDS to confirm the payment arrangements for your purchase. Billing details must match the card exactly.
Returns +
A return may be requested within 24 hours of delivery, with the security tag intact and the piece returned complete and in original condition. Approved returns carry a 5% restocking fee. Full details in our Returns and Exchanges policy.
Complete the piece
Carried with.
Chains, straps and cases selected to work with this piece.
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Why JANEFINDS
How JANEFINDS authenticates-
30+
Years of Hermès scholarship, collection, and authentication.
About Jane -
$2.8M+
The highest authenticated Hermès resale on record, a private transaction placed by Jane.
About JANEFINDS -
One review
Every piece on this site has passed Jane's hands. No exceptions.
How we authenticate -
Five tiers
Every piece is graded on the published JANEFINDS Standard, each tier defined in writing.
The Condition Guide
