Hermès Teddy Kelly 35 Fauve Doblis Suede and Mouton Shearling Palladium Hardware

Fauve Doblis suede, a tawny brown, forms the body; creamy mouton shearling runs along the gussets and the edge of the flap and covers the top handle; and smooth Ébène Barenia, a dark chocolate, is kept for the sangle, the shoulder strap and the clochette.

It was shown on the Hermès runway for Fall/Winter 2005, during Jean Paul Gaultier's tenure as creative director of women's ready-to-wear. The shoulder strap detaches, so the bag carries by hand or on the shoulder. The hardware is palladium throughout, from the turn-lock and padlock to the four feet on the suede base, and the interior is lined in chèvre.

The Doblis is a calf suede with a dense, velvet nap, the shearling keeps its wool, and the Barenia deepens in color and takes on a slight sheen as it ages. The recent reissue pairs its suede with Swift; this example carries the original Barenia.

Collector's Insight:
The 35 is the size the Teddy Kelly was introduced in, and the I □ stamp dates this example to 2005, its first year. Later versions moved to other formats, including the 2007 muff.

Resale Insight:
Buyers compare these examples on the condition of the Doblis nap and the shearling, both of which mark more readily than smooth leather, and on the completeness of the accompanying set.