Rare Hermès · Curated by Jane
Hermès Vintage Kelly 20 Sellier Owl Print Jaune Silk & Rouge Vif Box Calf Gold Hardware
Printed silk panels on a Jaune (yellow) ground featuring the Hermès owl motif: rows of stylized gray-and-white owls perched in arched formation, interspersed with small blue diamond accents and burgundy outlines.
The object record
- Condition
- 2 – Excellent
- Date stamp
- T ○ (1990)
- Material
- Printed Silk and Box Calf
- Made in
- France
- Color
- Owl Print Jaune Silk / Rouge Vif Box Calf
- Metallic finish
- Gold
- Dimensions
- L 20 × H 14 × D 7 cm | L 7.9" × H 5.5" × D 2.8"
- Care
- Veau Box Calf: Polishing is not a universal remedy for wear. Protect from humidity, prolonged light and extreme heat, and seek an appropriate assessment before treatment. Care Guide
The story behind the Kelly
Created in the 1930s by Robert Dumas as a women's bag with straps: a trapezoid with two triangular gussets, a cutout flap, a handle and two side straps. It took the Kelly name in 1956, when Grace Kelly made it famous. Sellier construction keeps the seams on the outside for a more defined outline; Retourné construction turns them inside for softer edges. The leather does not decide the construction: Box calf Kellys are recorded in both.
Discover Hermès Kelly BagsThe Box Calf trim across handle, sangles, toggle plate frame, side panels, edges, and base is rendered in Rouge Vif. The deep red Box pulls directly from the burgundy linework within the print, making the leather frame and silk field read as a single coordinated palette rather than a contrast pairing. Pink-toned contrast stitching threads the Box edges.
The vintage Kelly 20 is a distinct silhouette from the modern Mini Kelly II reintroduced in 2016. Originally produced from the 1950s and discontinued in 2009, the vintage format is taller and deeper than the current version, with the rounded "bracelet handle" introduced in 1980 that sits closer to the flap. All vintage Kelly 20s were produced in Sellier construction. Box Calf is the oldest leather in the Hermès canon, named after English bootmaker Joseph Box. T circle stamp places production at 1990, within the bracelet-handle window.
Collector's Insight:
Hermès produced silk-panel Kelly bags in limited quantities from the mid-1980s through the 1990s, applying scarf-weight silk to Kelly panels in various sizes and colorways. At 20 cm the combination is particularly scarce because the vintage Kelly 20 was already produced in small numbers relative to 28 and 32. The Owl Print in Jaune is a documented colorway within the silk-Kelly series alongside the more frequently surfaced Turquoise variant; the yellow ground appeared in smaller quantity and surfaces less often at resale. The silk is screen-printed, bonded to a substrate, and sewn into Sellier panels. Box Calf trim and silk panels age on different curves: the leather can be polished and restored, the silk cannot be refinished if stained or abraded. Vintage Kelly 20s do not include lock, key, or clochette, consistent with original specification.
Resale Insight:
Silk-panel vintage Kellys appear infrequently on the secondary market. The Owl Print in Jaune trades within the same collector lane as the Turquoise variant but with tighter supply due to smaller original production. Condition assessment splits across the two materials independently: this example presents both materials in matching condition, which is the structural requirement for top-of-market positioning in the silk-panel Kelly category.
Condition, defined +
Every piece is graded on the JANEFINDS five-tier scale: 1 Pristine, 2 Excellent, 3 Very Good, 4 Good, 5 Vintage, Well-Loved. Each tier is defined in writing in The Condition Guide.
The JANEFINDS standard +
Every piece is authenticated in-house and individually inspected, and ships with a JANEFINDS Certificate of Authenticity.
Delivery and payment +
Domestic: FedEx Direct Signature, no additional fee unless noted. International: FedEx International Priority; duties and taxes may apply at destination. We do not ship to P.O. boxes. Orders ship within two business days of inventory and payment confirmation; contact us for expedited service.
Payment: Credit-card acceptance and payment arrangements are determined on a case-by-case basis. Contact JANEFINDS to confirm the payment arrangements for your purchase. Billing details must match the card exactly.
Returns +
A return may be requested within 24 hours of delivery, with the security tag intact and the piece returned complete and in original condition. Approved returns carry a 5% restocking fee. Full details in our Returns and Exchanges policy.
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How JANEFINDS authenticates-
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About Jane -
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About JANEFINDS -
One review
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How we authenticate -
Five tiers
Every piece is graded on the published JANEFINDS Standard, each tier defined in writing.
The Condition Guide
