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Article: The Mini Kelly: A Complete History from 1980 to the Mini Kelly II

The JaneFinds Archive

The Mini Kelly

A complete history — from the 1980 original through the 2006 discontinuation, the gap era, and the 2016 Mini Kelly II release

The design elements of the iconic Hermès Kelly bag have been around for over a hundred years, and starting in the middle of the twentieth century, these elements were rendered together in smaller and smaller configurations. While 25cm Kelly bags have surfaced dating back to the mid-1960s, the truly mini 20cm Kelly began coming out of the Hermès atelier in 1980. These petite versions of an already iconic bag were the height of ladylike sophistication at the time — as they are now.

For this reference, we're treating any Kelly under 25cm as a mini-Kelly. The 25cm Kelly as it exists in current production was introduced approximately thirty years ago, though Hermès had produced similarly-sized Kellys by special request prior to that. Below 25cm, no documented examples predate 1980, suggesting this was designed specifically for general release.

The original mini-Kelly (1980–2006)

The classic 20cm was adapted into four distinct versions. Two featured the wrist-bracelet-scale top handle that is the most recognizable detail of the vintage mini-Kelly, built in both Sellier and Retourne construction. Two featured long leather straps in place of handles — one shoulder-length, one crossbody-length — both in Sellier construction. These four types represent the full range of what the original era produced.

Type Construction Defining feature
Top-handle Sellier Sellier Exaggerated wrist-scale handle; rigid exterior stitching
Top-handle Retourne Retourne Same wrist handle; softer rounded silhouette
Shoulder strap Sellier Sellier Long leather strap at shoulder length; no top handle
Crossbody strap Sellier Sellier Long leather strap at crossbody length; no top handle

Hermès produced this original group for over twenty-five years, with the final examples leaving the atelier around 2006. Over that period the 20cm was produced in every skin, color, and combination imaginable. While the majority were made in Box Calf, rare examples were crafted in Ostrich, Lizard, Crocodile, and Alligator — including the original Natura Vert Celadon Himalayan Alligator, a configuration that predates the Himalaya Birkin's existence by decades. Hermès also used this miniaturized format to showcase extraordinary craftsperson skill: exceptional examples in pleated silk, intricately printed lambskin, and woven Panama straw have all surfaced at auction.

The 15cm micro-Kelly was also produced during this same era — an even smaller format that appears at auction with exceptional rarity.

Hermès Mini Kelly 20 Sellier shoulder strap Black Doblis Suede Gold Hardware vintage
Vintage Mini Kelly 20 Sellier — Black Doblis Suede, shoulder strap, Gold Hardware, 1999. The shoulder-strap Sellier is one of the four original construction types; the Doblis Suede version is among the rarest materials encountered in any mini-Kelly format. Four have ever surfaced at auction.
Hermès Kelly Mini 20 Retourne Vert Cru Gulliver Gold Hardware vintage
Vintage Kelly Mini 20 Retourne — Vert Cru Gulliver, Gold Hardware. Vert Cru is one of the three rare original-era greens (alongside Vert Anis and Vert Olive) that command premiums in the vintage mini-Kelly market. Gulliver leather — now discontinued — grounds this piece firmly in the original production era.
Hermès Kelly 20 Mini Sellier Black Shiny Alligator Gold Hardware vintage
Vintage Kelly Mini 20 Sellier — Black Shiny Alligator, Gold Hardware. The exotic skin versions of the vintage mini-Kelly are the rarest configurations — fewer auction results exist for vintage mini-Kelly exotics than for almost any other documented Hermès configuration.

The gap era (2006–2016)

Some attribute the discontinuation of the vintage mini-Kelly to the mid-2000s trend toward larger bags. After a twenty-five year run, the house discontinued the size during Jean-Paul Gaultier's tenure. That period saw the introduction of several small Kelly designs that partially filled the void: the Kelly Pochette, Kelly Longue, and Kelly Cut were the three primary new Kelly formats developed during this time.

At the conclusion of the Gaultier era came a format more accurately described as a micro-Kelly than a mini-Kelly — an almost charm-sized bag released as part of the Candy Collection in bright Epsom leather, alongside a companion micro-Birkin. Some were produced in Lizard. These were shown on the runway with straps wrapped around models' wrists like bracelets. This moment — a miniaturized bag used as jewelry rather than as a bag — marked the cultural peak of the small-bag trend that would eventually bring the mini-Kelly back.

The Mini Kelly II (2016–present)

In 2016, nearly a decade after the original's retirement, Hermès released the Mini Kelly II. This Sellier-constructed bag launched in fall 2016 and quickly became the most sought-after bag in Hermès production — a position it has held consistently since.

The Mini Kelly II differs from its predecessor in three key ways. The handle uses double-loop hardware at a smaller scale, more proportionate to a full-size Kelly but no longer fitting over the wrist. The bag is slimmer in depth, so it sits flat when worn crossbody. And it is available exclusively in Sellier construction — no Retourne Mini Kelly II has been produced. One detail most collectors never notice: neither the original mini-Kelly nor the Mini Kelly II has ever come with a lock, keys, or clochette.

Production leathers for the Mini Kelly II include Epsom, Box Calf, and Chèvre in standard production. Exotic configurations — Alligator, Crocodile, and Ostrich — have also been produced, with alligator being the most frequently encountered exotic. As of 2025, Paris has restricted Special Orders to the Mini Kelly II and Kelly Pochette only — a production restriction that has further compressed new supply of this already highly allocated format.

Hermès Mini Kelly family — original and Mini Kelly II comparison
The mini-Kelly family — illustrating the range of configurations, materials, and scale variations across both generations. The silhouette is consistent; the details that distinguish original from Mini Kelly II are visible in handle proportion, depth, and strap attachment.
Hermès Mini Kelly 20 Étoupe Epsom Palladium Hardware Mini Kelly II
Mini Kelly II — Étoupe Epsom, PHW. The most versatile calfskin configuration — Étoupe in Epsom is the standard-bearer for the Mini Kelly II's daily carry position.
Hermès Kelly 20 Mini II Sellier Gris Perle Matte Alligator Gold Hardware
Mini Kelly II — Gris Perle Matte Alligator, GHW. The exotic tier of the Mini Kelly II — matte alligator at this scale is among the most technically demanding configurations in Hermès production.
Hermès Kelly Mini II 20 Sellier 5P Bubblegum Pink Matte Alligator Palladium Hardware
Mini Kelly II — 5P Bubblegum Pink Matte Alligator, PHW. Pink matte alligator at mini-Kelly scale is a genuinely rare intersection of two scarce variables — color and material — that creates its own collector category.

Secondary market data — vintage vs. Mini Kelly II

Note: The auction data below reflects results through approximately 2019. Values have continued to move since — treat these as directional benchmarks rather than current pricing. Current Mini Kelly II boutique retail is $10,000 (2025), up approximately 40% from 2016 launch pricing.

Auction results through 2019 provided a clear picture of both generations' trajectories. Vintage top-handle mini-Kellys in leather had risen approximately 20% annually in the years prior, with 2019 averaging around $17,000 — equal to the Mini Kelly II leather average at the time. The rare Doblis Suede mini-Kellys told the most striking story: four have ever sold at auction, appearing roughly every three years, with the price doubling each time — from just under $3,000 in 2010, to $6,500 in 2013, to $12,000 in 2015, to over $22,000 in 2019. Vintage crocodile and alligator examples similarly jumped from an all-time average of $38,000 to $48,000 in 2019.

Mini Kelly II leather examples averaged approximately $17,000 through 2019, with results ranging from $9,100 to $30,000 across roughly sixty auction results. Exotic Mini Kelly II configurations showed more volatility — alligator and crocodile examples had declined from approximately $46,000 in 2017 to $36,000 by 2019, a pattern consistent with new-release price compression as more examples reached the market. Since 2025 SO restrictions to Mini Kelly II only, secondary demand has increased materially.

The vintage vs. Mini Kelly II question: The two generations are not substitutes — they are different objects. The vintage mini-Kelly's wrist-handle, Retourne option, and original-era leathers (Gulliver, early Box Calf, early exotics) distinguish it completely from the Mini Kelly II. A collector building a mini-Kelly holding should consider both generations as separate positions: the vintage for historical depth and material variety, the Mini Kelly II for current production access and the deepest secondary market liquidity in the format's history.

Browse Mini Kelly at JaneFinds →

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6 min read

The Mini Kelly: A Complete History from 1980 to the Mini Kelly II

The full generational arc of the Hermès Mini Kelly — the 20cm original (1980–2006), its four construction types, rare material variants, and the Mini Kelly II released in 2016. With auction data and collector intelligence.

Hermès Mini Kelly Mania
The JaneFinds Archive

The Mini Kelly

A complete history — from the 1980 original through the 2006 discontinuation, the gap era, and the 2016 Mini Kelly II release

The design elements of the iconic Hermès Kelly bag have been around for over a hundred years, and starting in the middle of the twentieth century, these elements were rendered together in smaller and smaller configurations. While 25cm Kelly bags have surfaced dating back to the mid-1960s, the truly mini 20cm Kelly began coming out of the Hermès atelier in 1980. These petite versions of an already iconic bag were the height of ladylike sophistication at the time — as they are now.

For this reference, we're treating any Kelly under 25cm as a mini-Kelly. The 25cm Kelly as it exists in current production was introduced approximately thirty years ago, though Hermès had produced similarly-sized Kellys by special request prior to that. Below 25cm, no documented examples predate 1980, suggesting this was designed specifically for general release.

The original mini-Kelly (1980–2006)

The classic 20cm was adapted into four distinct versions. Two featured the wrist-bracelet-scale top handle that is the most recognizable detail of the vintage mini-Kelly, built in both Sellier and Retourne construction. Two featured long leather straps in place of handles — one shoulder-length, one crossbody-length — both in Sellier construction. These four types represent the full range of what the original era produced.

Type Construction Defining feature
Top-handle Sellier Sellier Exaggerated wrist-scale handle; rigid exterior stitching
Top-handle Retourne Retourne Same wrist handle; softer rounded silhouette
Shoulder strap Sellier Sellier Long leather strap at shoulder length; no top handle
Crossbody strap Sellier Sellier Long leather strap at crossbody length; no top handle

Hermès produced this original group for over twenty-five years, with the final examples leaving the atelier around 2006. Over that period the 20cm was produced in every skin, color, and combination imaginable. While the majority were made in Box Calf, rare examples were crafted in Ostrich, Lizard, Crocodile, and Alligator — including the original Natura Vert Celadon Himalayan Alligator, a configuration that predates the Himalaya Birkin's existence by decades. Hermès also used this miniaturized format to showcase extraordinary craftsperson skill: exceptional examples in pleated silk, intricately printed lambskin, and woven Panama straw have all surfaced at auction.

The 15cm micro-Kelly was also produced during this same era — an even smaller format that appears at auction with exceptional rarity.

Hermès Mini Kelly 20 Sellier shoulder strap Black Doblis Suede Gold Hardware vintage
Vintage Mini Kelly 20 Sellier — Black Doblis Suede, shoulder strap, Gold Hardware, 1999. The shoulder-strap Sellier is one of the four original construction types; the Doblis Suede version is among the rarest materials encountered in any mini-Kelly format. Four have ever surfaced at auction.
Hermès Kelly Mini 20 Retourne Vert Cru Gulliver Gold Hardware vintage
Vintage Kelly Mini 20 Retourne — Vert Cru Gulliver, Gold Hardware. Vert Cru is one of the three rare original-era greens (alongside Vert Anis and Vert Olive) that command premiums in the vintage mini-Kelly market. Gulliver leather — now discontinued — grounds this piece firmly in the original production era.
Hermès Kelly 20 Mini Sellier Black Shiny Alligator Gold Hardware vintage
Vintage Kelly Mini 20 Sellier — Black Shiny Alligator, Gold Hardware. The exotic skin versions of the vintage mini-Kelly are the rarest configurations — fewer auction results exist for vintage mini-Kelly exotics than for almost any other documented Hermès configuration.

The gap era (2006–2016)

Some attribute the discontinuation of the vintage mini-Kelly to the mid-2000s trend toward larger bags. After a twenty-five year run, the house discontinued the size during Jean-Paul Gaultier's tenure. That period saw the introduction of several small Kelly designs that partially filled the void: the Kelly Pochette, Kelly Longue, and Kelly Cut were the three primary new Kelly formats developed during this time.

At the conclusion of the Gaultier era came a format more accurately described as a micro-Kelly than a mini-Kelly — an almost charm-sized bag released as part of the Candy Collection in bright Epsom leather, alongside a companion micro-Birkin. Some were produced in Lizard. These were shown on the runway with straps wrapped around models' wrists like bracelets. This moment — a miniaturized bag used as jewelry rather than as a bag — marked the cultural peak of the small-bag trend that would eventually bring the mini-Kelly back.

The Mini Kelly II (2016–present)

In 2016, nearly a decade after the original's retirement, Hermès released the Mini Kelly II. This Sellier-constructed bag launched in fall 2016 and quickly became the most sought-after bag in Hermès production — a position it has held consistently since.

The Mini Kelly II differs from its predecessor in three key ways. The handle uses double-loop hardware at a smaller scale, more proportionate to a full-size Kelly but no longer fitting over the wrist. The bag is slimmer in depth, so it sits flat when worn crossbody. And it is available exclusively in Sellier construction — no Retourne Mini Kelly II has been produced. One detail most collectors never notice: neither the original mini-Kelly nor the Mini Kelly II has ever come with a lock, keys, or clochette.

Production leathers for the Mini Kelly II include Epsom, Box Calf, and Chèvre in standard production. Exotic configurations — Alligator, Crocodile, and Ostrich — have also been produced, with alligator being the most frequently encountered exotic. As of 2025, Paris has restricted Special Orders to the Mini Kelly II and Kelly Pochette only — a production restriction that has further compressed new supply of this already highly allocated format.

Hermès Mini Kelly family — original and Mini Kelly II comparison
The mini-Kelly family — illustrating the range of configurations, materials, and scale variations across both generations. The silhouette is consistent; the details that distinguish original from Mini Kelly II are visible in handle proportion, depth, and strap attachment.
Hermès Mini Kelly 20 Étoupe Epsom Palladium Hardware Mini Kelly II
Mini Kelly II — Étoupe Epsom, PHW. The most versatile calfskin configuration — Étoupe in Epsom is the standard-bearer for the Mini Kelly II's daily carry position.
Hermès Kelly 20 Mini II Sellier Gris Perle Matte Alligator Gold Hardware
Mini Kelly II — Gris Perle Matte Alligator, GHW. The exotic tier of the Mini Kelly II — matte alligator at this scale is among the most technically demanding configurations in Hermès production.
Hermès Kelly Mini II 20 Sellier 5P Bubblegum Pink Matte Alligator Palladium Hardware
Mini Kelly II — 5P Bubblegum Pink Matte Alligator, PHW. Pink matte alligator at mini-Kelly scale is a genuinely rare intersection of two scarce variables — color and material — that creates its own collector category.

Secondary market data — vintage vs. Mini Kelly II

Note: The auction data below reflects results through approximately 2019. Values have continued to move since — treat these as directional benchmarks rather than current pricing. Current Mini Kelly II boutique retail is $10,000 (2025), up approximately 40% from 2016 launch pricing.

Auction results through 2019 provided a clear picture of both generations' trajectories. Vintage top-handle mini-Kellys in leather had risen approximately 20% annually in the years prior, with 2019 averaging around $17,000 — equal to the Mini Kelly II leather average at the time. The rare Doblis Suede mini-Kellys told the most striking story: four have ever sold at auction, appearing roughly every three years, with the price doubling each time — from just under $3,000 in 2010, to $6,500 in 2013, to $12,000 in 2015, to over $22,000 in 2019. Vintage crocodile and alligator examples similarly jumped from an all-time average of $38,000 to $48,000 in 2019.

Mini Kelly II leather examples averaged approximately $17,000 through 2019, with results ranging from $9,100 to $30,000 across roughly sixty auction results. Exotic Mini Kelly II configurations showed more volatility — alligator and crocodile examples had declined from approximately $46,000 in 2017 to $36,000 by 2019, a pattern consistent with new-release price compression as more examples reached the market. Since 2025 SO restrictions to Mini Kelly II only, secondary demand has increased materially.

The vintage vs. Mini Kelly II question: The two generations are not substitutes — they are different objects. The vintage mini-Kelly's wrist-handle, Retourne option, and original-era leathers (Gulliver, early Box Calf, early exotics) distinguish it completely from the Mini Kelly II. A collector building a mini-Kelly holding should consider both generations as separate positions: the vintage for historical depth and material variety, the Mini Kelly II for current production access and the deepest secondary market liquidity in the format's history.

Browse Mini Kelly at JaneFinds →