The JaneFinds Archive

The Complete Hermès Leather Reference

Every leather: current production, special categories, and discontinued — with grain imagery, origin dates, and characteristics.

Hermès works in roughly 40 distinct leather varieties across its bag, accessory, and ready-to-wear catalog. Each has a specific grain structure, finish, and behavioral profile that affects how the bag wears, ages, and positions in the secondary market. This reference covers the complete Hermès leather taxonomy organized by hide family, with discontinued leathers noted separately within each category.

Production status, and why it matters: Hermès rotates leathers in and out of production without announcement. The steady core in recent seasons: Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Swift, Chèvre, Novillo, Tadelakt, Barenia and Barenia Faubourg, Grizzly, and the exotics. Rested and returned in recent seasons: Box Calf, Doblis, Lizard, Ostrich, and Vache Naturelle. Intermittent: Butler, Evercolor, Evergrain, Jonathan, Madame, and Maurice. A leather's rest period often becomes a secondary market premium; its return often releases one.

Calfskin – Natural Grained

Peaux Classiques · Veau · Grain Naturel

Veau Togo grain — detail from Hermès Birkin 35 Anemone Togo

Veau TogoCurrent

Introduced 1997 Baby bull calf. Fine pebbled grain, semi-matte, supple with good shape retention. Lighter than Clémence. Scratch-resistant. The most widely produced Birkin and Kelly leather. Available in the full Hermès color palette across all bag formats and small leather goods.

Taurillon Clémence grain — detail from Hermès Birkin 30 Rouge Pivoine Clémence

Taurillon ClémenceCurrent

Bull calf · Originally "Mu" Larger, flatter grain than Togo. Heavier, more supple, with a pronounced slouch. Fully matte. The weight of a Clémence Birkin 30 is noticeably heavier than Togo. Natural grain variation across each hide is more pronounced than in Togo.

Fjord

Vachette Crispé Fjord · Adult cowhide Adult cowhide with a flat, wide grain and the leather's signature vertical veining, visible across the panel at a distance. Fully matte and among the most water-resistant hides Hermès has produced. Heavier than Togo or Clémence; the weight is the main reason it has largely left current bag production. Found on Birkins, HACs, and Garden Party bags from earlier seasons.

Taurillon Novillo grain — detail from Hermès Birkin 25 Gold Novillo

Taurillon NovilloCurrent

Introduced 2015 · Bull hide Fine natural grain, smaller than Togo or Clémence, with a smoother finish and lighter weight. Exceptional color absorption makes it a preferred canvas for saturated brights. Softer hand than Epsom despite comparable durability. Increasingly common in Birkin production.

Swatch pending

Taurillon MauriceIntermittent

Introduced 2017 · Bull calf Bull calf with a small, round, well-defined grain and a slight luster that deepens over time. Positioned by Hermès as an alternative to Clémence with better hold: a similar hand with more structure. Seen on the Evelyne, Picotin, 24/24, and select Birkins. Intermittent production.

Illustrative smooth calf leather texture

Veau Sikkim

Lightweight calf Thin, lightweight calf with little to no visible grain and a soft, velvety hand. Bags in Sikkim carry a relaxed, slouchy silhouette. More susceptible to scratching than grained calfskins; the tradeoff for its weightlessness.

Veau Jonathan grain — detail from Hermès Birkin 35 Beige de Weimar Jonathan

Veau JonathanIntermittent

Introduced 2018 Soft, lightweight calf in the Swift family: subtle natural grain, matte surface, supple hand. Named, like Swift and the earlier Gulliver, for the author of Gulliver's Travels. Seen primarily in small leather goods and select bags. Intermittent production.

Evergrain — detail from Hermès Kelly Longue Rose Dragée Evergrain

EvergrainIntermittent

Male calf Irregular large grain, fully matte. High water resistance; the most weather-resistant of the standard calfskins. Used primarily in the Garden Party line. More textural variation than Togo. Intermittent production; most examples on the secondary market date from the 2000s–2010s.

Negonda

Introduced 2007 Male calf. Developed primarily for the Garden Party line. Color allocation differs from the Buffle Sindhu, resulting in different color availability between the two leathers used in this format. Rarely encountered on secondary bags.

Fine Grain Calfskin

Introduced 2013 Male calf with firm structure and matte texture. Produced primarily in small leather goods: wallets, cardholders, and accessories. Not used in standard bag production. Limited color availability.

Calfskin – Processed Grained

Veau · Grain Pressé

Veau Epsom grain — detail from Hermès Birkin 30 Rouge Casaque Epsom

Veau EpsomCurrent

Introduced 2003 · Replaced Courchevel Heat-pressed crosshatch grain on male calf. The most rigid standard calfskin; holds shape independently. Lightweight. Excellent color saturation. Scratch-resistant surface. The reference leather for Kelly Sellier. Full palette available across bags and small leather goods.

Veau Madame grain — detail from Hermès Birkin 30 Sellier Bronze Doré Madame

Veau MadameIntermittent

Structured pressed grain Fine pressed grain with a subtle sheen and firm structure; softer in hand than Epsom while holding architecture. The facade leather of the Faubourg Birkin and a recurring choice for Constance. Intermittent production; colors have included Gris Meyer and the Faubourg editions.

Evercolor grain — detail from Hermès Roulis Mini Bleu Zanzibar Evercolor

EvercolorIntermittent

Introduced 2013 · Pressed Pressed calf with a tight, regular grain, satin sheen, and notably soft hand. Excellent color absorption. Began in small leather goods, now a staple of Kelly, Constance, Roulis, Lindy, and Kelly Danse production. Durable but not scratch-proof; sensitive to prolonged sun.

Vachette Country

Introduced 2012 · Female calf Processed female calfskin with firm, structured hand. Developed primarily for the Garden Party line. The only standard Hermès leather sourced from female cattle. Limited color range.

Veau Grain d'H

Introduced 2012 Fine structured pressed grain with the H monogram embossed into the surface texture, the defining characteristic of this leather. Soft hand with protective grain. Available across bags and small leather goods in a moderately wide color range.

Calfskin – Smooth

Veau · Lisse

Veau Swift — detail from Hermès Kelly Danse Bleu de Malte Swift

Veau SwiftCurrent

Introduced 2006 · Replaced Gulliver Smooth male calf, semi-matte finish. The most vibrant color saturation of any standard Hermès leather; colors appear more intense on Swift than on any other calfskin. Soft and supple. More susceptible to scratching than Togo or Epsom, which is the tradeoff for its exceptional color quality.

Veau Volupto

Debut F/W 2017 Smooth, supple calf with a waxy satin finish and barely visible grain; softer and less rigid than Epsom, with a hand collectors describe as buttery. Darkens and takes on shine where handled most, developing character with use rather than losing it. Seen on the Birkin Rock, Kelly Danse, and Lindy.

Veau Tadelakt — detail from Hermès Constance 18 Anemone Tadelakt

Veau TadelaktCurrent

Introduced 2007 Smooth, lustrous calf with no visible grain; softer and more luminous than Box Calf, with a faint opalescent sheen in natural light and a subtly mottled surface up close. Showcases deep colors exceptionally. Like Box, it scratches and can blister when wet, and like Box, most scratches buff back.

Vache Naturelle — detail from Hermès Kelly 35 Sellier Vache Naturelle

Vache NaturelleReturned

Natural · Black only Unprocessed male cowhide: the surface is not treated beyond basic tanning. Very delicate. Develops a rich patina with use, shifting in tone as the leather's natural oils redistribute. Available in Natural and Black only. Related to Barenia but with a distinct feel. Recently returned to production.

Vache Hunter

Natural cowhide · Trim & Herbag Natural cowhide used for structural elements: Herbag flaps and closures, handles, straps, and trim across the casual lines. Firm, matte, and built to take wear. Develops a honeyed patina like the other natural hides. Rarely the primary leather on a formal bag; its role is the frame rather than the facade.

Veau Barenia — detail from Hermès Kelly 28 Sellier Gold Barenia

Veau BareniaCurrent

Hermès saddlery leather · Bags since the 1970s Male calf, untreated surface, fully matte. Double-tanned with chrome and vegetable dyes, then oil-soaked for weeks. As the leather's oil content changes over time, the color deepens and a slight sheen develops, a controlled, intentional aging process. The most demanding leather to maintain correctly. Collector cult status.

Barenia Faubourg grain — detail from Hermès 2424 29 Fauve

Barenia FaubourgCurrent

Introduced 2017 The grained evolution of Barenia, named for the flagship at Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Carries Barenia's warm character and patina behavior on a fine Togo-like grain that resists scratching and weather far better than the classic smooth surface. The practical route into Barenia collecting.

Illustrative natural calf leather texture

Veau ButlerIntermittent

Introduced 2013 · Natural Natural, untreated calf in the Barenia and Tadelakt lineage: smooth surface, develops patina with use, demands careful handling. Produced rarely and difficult to find; seen in Natural Sable alongside Togo in recent seasons. A quiet connoisseur leather.

Veau Box Calf — detail from Hermès Kelly 20 Sellier Rouge Vif Box

Veau Box CalfReturned

Named for Joseph Box, 1890s Male calf, polished to a high gloss. The oldest Hermès bag leather still in production. Rigid when new, developing characteristic crinkle lines with age. The luster deepens over years of use. Almost exclusively Sellier construction. Scratches visibly but polishes back. The reference leather for vintage Kelly collecting. Recently returned to broader production.

Veau Monsieur

Introduced 2018 · Box lineage Smooth calf in the Box Calf lineage; the name refers to the title carried by the King's younger brother under the Ancien Régime, a deliberate nod to Box's standing as the king of leathers. Satiny finish over a very fine grain. Rigid, holds its shape, and develops a deeper sheen where handled most.

Veau Sombrero

Introduced 2011 Male calf, smooth surface with a matte finish. Distinctive skin-like texture: fine, close, and firm. Sturdy enough for rigid formats like the Kelly Sellier and Constance, and a recurring trim leather on the Faubourg Birkin. Sensitive to water; scratches with wear.

Veau Chamonix

Chamonix, Mont Blanc, French Alps Male calf, smooth surface. Functionally a matte version of Veau Box: the same fine-grain calfskin finished without the gloss polish. Retains the firmness and hand of Box Calf while reading quieter in presentation. Named for the Alpine region of origin.

Veau Derma

Introduced 2004 · Caravan only Male calf, notably thin, with a soft and smooth texture. Produced exclusively for the Hermès Caravan, a specific product format. Not available in standard bag production. Among the most narrowly distributed Hermès leathers.

Veau Evercalf

Male calf · Soft smooth Male calf with a soft, smooth, matte surface. A quieter calfskin without the assertiveness of Box or the patina character of Barenia. Produced in a selective range. Less commonly encountered on the secondary market than Swift or Togo.

Calfskin – Suede & Nubuck

Veau · Velours · Nubuck

Full suede reference: Doblis, Grizzly, Veau Velours, and the Teddy editions are covered in depth, with construction, linings, sizes, and market behavior, in the JaneFinds Suede Guide.

Veau Troïka

Early-stage calf · Lustrous Fine, smooth calfskin processed from early-stage calf. Distinctive coat with natural luster. The smoothest and most refined texture in this category; closer to smooth calfskin than suede in character. Limited production.

Veau Doblis suede — detail from Hermès Birkin 30 Gris Perle Doblis

Veau Velours / DoblisReturned

Nubuck · Velvet finish Male calf nubuck: the surface has been trimmed to a dense velvet finish. The most refined suede Hermès produces. Deep, consistent nap with exceptional tactile quality. Requires careful maintenance; water and contact marks are visible on the surface. Recently returned to production after a rest.

Veau GrizzlyCurrent

Nubuck · Short velvet Male calf nubuck with a shorter, more compact trim than Doblis. The shorter nap produces a different surface texture: less plush, more tightly uniform. The same maintenance requirements as Doblis apply. In steady recent production.

Calfskin – Discontinued

Veau · Discontinué

Vache LiégéeDiscontinued

Introduced 2004 Cowhide with luster and a processed grain, introduced as the successor to Ardennes. Developed primarily for bags in a limited color range. Primarily encountered in Garden Party bags from the mid-2000s. Secondary market interest as a discontinued leather.

Ardennes grain — detail from Hermès HAC 45 Vert Claire Ardennes

ArdennesDiscontinued

Discontinued early 2000s Male calf from the Ardenne region (northern France and southern Belgium). Dense pressed grain with firm structure. Discontinued in the early 2000s with Vache Liégée introduced as its successor in 2004. Found on vintage Kellys from the 1980s–1990s. Among the more sought-after discontinued leathers.

Veau Gulliver — detail from Hermès Kelly Mini 20 Vert Cru Gulliver

Veau GulliverDiscontinued

Discontinued 1999 · Reborn as Swift Male calf, smooth texture, soft hand. Discontinued in 1999; the leather returned in the mid-2000s under the name Swift, preserving its smooth, saturated-color character. Found under the Gulliver name on bags from the 1990s.

Veau GraineDiscontinued

White and Natural only Male calf, thin pressed grain, matte texture. Available in White and Natural only. Succeeded by Veau Epsom. Rarely encountered; when found, it predates the 2003 Epsom introduction.

Veau Graine Courchevel — detail from Hermès Birkin 35 Vert Pelouse Courchevel

Veau Graine CourchevelDiscontinued

Replaced by Epsom Male calf, glass-processed and press-processed. Thin pressed grain with luster. The direct predecessor to Epsom: Epsom's crosshatch grain replaced this earlier pressed-grain leather in 2003. Found on bags from the 1990s.

Veau Graine LisseDiscontinued

Replaced by Epsom Male calf, glass and press processed with thin grain and luster. Developed as a successor to Courchevel and Veau Graine, then itself replaced by Epsom. The transitional pressed-grain leather between the two eras.

Chèvre – Mountain Goat

Peaux Classiques · Chèvre · Grain Naturel

Chèvre Mysore grain — detail from Hermès Kelly 20 Sellier Moutarde Mysore

Chèvre MysoreCurrent

Introduced 2002 · Mountain goat Mountain goat with natural grain and visible spine character. Lightweight, durable, scratch-resistant, with a subtle sheen. Because sufficiently large hides are limited, produced primarily in small leather goods, interiors, and compact bags. The workhorse Chèvre.

Chèvre Chamkila

Introduced 2018 · "Shiny" in Hindi Goatskin with a smooth, fine grain and a high-shine, almost glossy finish; the spine reads less pronounced than Mysore, giving a more polished surface. The canvas for standout colors such as Doré and Rose Pop. Seen on Constance, Kelly formats, and Special Orders.

Chèvre Coromandel

Mountain goat · Natural luster Mountain goat with a distinctive natural luster and characteristic grain pattern. The surface has more visual presence than Mysore; the pressed grain and natural sheen are the defining features. Produced in small leather goods and select bag formats.

Chèvre – Discontinued

Chèvre · Discontinué

Vibrato layered goatskin — detail from Hermès Kelly 32 Multicolor Vibrato

VibratoDiscontinued

Layered goat Technically demanding: dyed mountain goat skin is stacked in multiple layers, then cut to expose the vertical color pattern across the cross-section. No two pieces are identical. Wide color variation was available. Discontinued. Secondary market examples are actively sought by collectors who appreciate its construction complexity.

Buffle – Buffalo

Peaux Classiques · Buffle

Buffle

Buffalo hide Buffalo leather with a slightly rough, natural grain. High water resistance. Used widely in the Garden Party line for its durability and weather-tolerant surface. Heavier hand than calfskin. Wider color availability than other buffalo variants.

Buffle Sindhu

Introduced 2007 · Water buffalo Water buffalo, Garden Party only. Color allocation differs from Negonda; the two leathers are used selectively across the Garden Party color range, with specific colors assigned to one or the other.

Buffle Gala

Water buffalo · Small items only Water buffalo with fine, intricate grain relative to other buffalo leathers. The grain scale and surface characteristics limit its use to small leather goods and accessories; the hide characteristics don't scale to larger bag formats.

Buffle Pondichéry

Introduced 2009 · South India Water buffalo from the east coast of southern India (Pondicherry region). Fine, intricate grain. Like Buffle Gala, produced exclusively in small leather goods and accessories. The regional origin is reflected in the name.

Buffle – Discontinued

Buffle · Discontinué

DalmatienDiscontinued

Double-dyed Double-dyed buffalo hide: two separate dye applications create a spotted surface pattern. Wide color variation was available. Discontinued. A novelty leather with strong collector interest precisely because of its discontinued status and distinctive visual character.

Crocodile – Shiny (Lisse)

Peaux Précieuses · Crocodile · Lisse

Porosus Crocodile Lisse scales — detail from Hermès Birkin 30 Bleu Marine Shiny Porosus

Porosus Crocodile LisseCurrent

Shiny · Saltwater croc · Australia / SE Asia Saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus Porosus). The finest crocodile skin: smallest, most symmetrical scales. Agate-polished to a shiny "Lisse" finish. Each scale is individually polished. The apex of the Hermès leather hierarchy.

Niloticus Crocodile Lisse scales — detail from Hermès Birkin 30 Rouge H Niloticus

Niloticus Crocodile LisseCurrent

Shiny · Nile croc · Zimbabwe Nile crocodile (Crocodylus Niloticus). Larger scales than Porosus, with excellent regularity. Agate-polished shiny finish. Used for the Himalayan gradient configuration. Second tier to Porosus in the crocodile hierarchy.

Alligator Lisse scales — detail from Hermès Mini Kelly II HSS Bordeaux Shiny Alligator

Alligator LisseCurrent

Shiny · Mississippiensis · Louisiana/Florida American Alligator (Alligator Mississippiensis). Agate-polished shiny finish. Distinct scale pattern from crocodile; umbilical scar visible on belly skin. Produced primarily in small leather goods and the Birkin 25.

Crocodile – Matte

Peaux Précieuses · Crocodile · Mat

Niloticus Crocodile MatCurrent

Matte · Nile croc · Zimbabwe Nile crocodile finished with a matte process (wool felt and machinery polish) rather than agate polishing. The matte surface absorbs light rather than reflecting it, producing a more understated presentation than Lisse. Some collectors strongly prefer the matte finish for its depth.

Porosus Crocodile Matte scales — detail from Hermès Birkin 35 Vert Olive Semi-Matte Porosus

Porosus Crocodile MatCurrent

Matte · Saltwater croc Saltwater crocodile with matte process finish. The same wool-felt matting technique applied to the finest crocodile skin. Produced in very limited quantities. At the intersection of the highest-grade exotic and the most collectible finish variant.

Alligator Mat scales — detail from Hermès Birkin 35 Geranium Matte Alligator

Alligator MatCurrent

Matte · Mississippiensis American Alligator with matte finish. The natural matte character of Alligator lends itself particularly well to the mat process; the result has a depth and texture distinct from both matte Niloticus and shiny Alligator Lisse.

Ostrich

Peaux Précieuses · Autruche

AutrucheReturned

Ostrich · South Africa / Australia The distinctive quill-follicle pattern, raised round bumps from plucked feather follicles, is unique to ostrich. Three-dimensional under any light. Soft and supple despite the surface texture. Durable relative to its delicate appearance. Returned to the 2026 Special Order charts after an absence. Note: previously discontinued for Special Orders in 2025.

Lizard

Peaux Précieuses · Lézard

Lézard LisseReturned

Shiny lizard · Southeast Asia Lizard from Southeast Asia, including the Salvator water monitor. Very small, uniformly scaled with a natural luster. Lightweight. The surface is more delicate than crocodile and shows scratches at stress points more readily. Produced primarily in small leather goods and the Birkin 25 due to hide size constraints.

Lézard Ombré

Debut 2007 F/W · Salvator lizard Salvator lizard processed with minimal alteration to preserve the natural surface texture, with the skin's natural gradient banding preserved. The ombré effect penetrates into the scale structure rather than sitting on the surface; each piece has a unique gradient. Primarily small leather goods, Birkin 25, and select Kelly formats. Among the most actively collected lizard configurations.

A note on exotic skins and authentication: Scale patterns on genuine Hermès exotic skins are three-dimensional: they cast micro-shadows under raking light. Embossed or printed exotic imitations are flat under the same light, regardless of how convincing they appear under direct overhead illumination. For a full authentication reference, see the JaneFinds Authentication Guide.

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