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Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 2 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 3 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 4 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 5 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 6 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 7 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 8 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 9 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 10 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 11 of 14
Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 12 of 14
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Hermès Birkin 40 in Vache Naturelle Vache Naturelle Calfskin with Gold hardware, image 14 of 14

Rare Hermès · Curated by Jane

Hermès Birkin 40 Vache Naturelle Gold Hardware

This vintage Hermès Birkin 40 is a quintessential example of the house's saddle-making heritage, preserved from the 1997 production year.

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The object record

Condition
2 – Excellent
Date stamp
A □ (1997)
Material
Vache Naturelle Calfskin
Made in
France
Color
Vache Naturelle (Natural)
Metallic finish
Gold
Dimensions
L 40 × H 30 × D 21 cm | L 15.75" × H 11.25" × D 8"
Care
Vache Naturelle: Develops a visible patina. Protect from humidity, prolonged light and extreme heat, and seek an appropriate assessment before treatment. Care Guide
Read the condition guide
The story behind the Birkin

Originated in 1984 from a conversation between Jane Birkin and Hermès Executive Chairman Jean-Louis Dumas; its structural lineage traces to the Haut à Courroies. Familiar sizes are 25, 30, 35 and 40 cm, alongside miniature, shoulder and travel versions, in both Retourné and Sellier construction.

Discover Hermès Birkin Bags

Rendered in Vache Naturelle, a vegetable-tanned calfskin left largely untreated, this bag has developed the rich, honeyed patina that collectors prize above all else. Unlike modern, stabilized leathers, Vache Naturelle is reactive, darkening and smoothing with exposure to light and touch, creating a living archive of its use.

The 40cm silhouette was the original size designed for Jane Birkin, intended to serve as a weekender as much as a handbag. This vintage example features Gold hardware, which enhances the warm, golden undertones of the natural hide. The Square A stamp confirms its late-90s provenance, an era widely considered to be a high-water mark for Hermès leather quality. It is a robust, travel-ready piece that balances raw material honesty with refined construction.

Collector's Insight:
Vache Naturelle is the purest expression of Hermès leathercraft. A Square A (1997) vintage in this condition is a time capsule, offering the "Golden Era" quality that modern treated leathers cannot replicate. It is a living material that improves aesthetically with every wear.

Resale Insight:
The 40cm size has surged in value as the "Big Bag" trend returns. Vintage Vache Naturelle commands a premium over standard leathers due to its scarcity and the impossibility of reproducing its natural aging process. It is a core asset for the heritage collector.

Condition, defined +

Every piece is graded on the JANEFINDS five-tier scale: 1 Pristine, 2 Excellent, 3 Very Good, 4 Good, 5 Vintage, Well-Loved. Each tier is defined in writing in The Condition Guide.

The JANEFINDS standard +

Every piece is authenticated in-house and individually inspected, and ships with a JANEFINDS Certificate of Authenticity.

Delivery and payment +

Domestic: FedEx Direct Signature, no additional fee unless noted. International: FedEx International Priority; duties and taxes may apply at destination. We do not ship to P.O. boxes. Orders ship within two business days of inventory and payment confirmation; contact us for expedited service.

Payment: Credit-card acceptance and payment arrangements are determined on a case-by-case basis. Contact JANEFINDS to confirm the payment arrangements for your purchase. Billing details must match the card exactly.

Returns +

A return may be requested within 24 hours of delivery, with the security tag intact and the piece returned complete and in original condition. Approved returns carry a 5% restocking fee. Full details in our Returns and Exchanges policy.

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  • 30+

    Years of Hermès scholarship, collection, and authentication.

    About Jane
  • $2.8M+

    The highest authenticated Hermès resale on record, a private transaction placed by Jane.

    About JANEFINDS
  • One review

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    How we authenticate
  • Five tiers

    Every piece is graded on the published JANEFINDS Standard, each tier defined in writing.

    The Condition Guide