The Hermès Candy Collection: A Look Back

The Hermès Candy Collection: A Look Back (2011–2012)

What it was. Launched in Spring 2011 under creative director Christophe Lemaire and expanded again in Fall 2012, the Candy Collection reimagined Birkin and Kelly in vivid, bi‑color schemes: saturated Epsom exteriors with contrasting chèvre interiors and back‑of‑sangle color pops. It was one of Hermès’ widest ranging seasonal limited editions and set the tone for the brand’s modern “editions” era. [oai_citation:0‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
What was produced. Candy Birkins in 35/30/25 and Candy Kellys in 35/32/28 (Retourne). The capsule also coincided with Micro Birkin & Kelly pieces executed in the same eye‑popping hues (solid tone, not bi‑color), most famously Rose Tyrien, Kiwi, and Bleu Céleste. Early micros from 2011 carry the □O blind stamp; many 2012 bi‑color Candies are □P. [oai_citation:1‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags) [oai_citation:2‡Baghunter](https://baghunter.com/pages/hermes-color-guide?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
Design Language & Materials
- Leather: Candy bags are overwhelmingly Epsom (for crisp edges, color brightness, and structural integrity). Interiors typically in Chèvre. [oai_citation:3‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
- Contrast logic: Exterior in a “candy” tone; interior and the reverse side of the sangles in a contrasting color for a subtle two‑tone reveal. [oai_citation:4‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
- Hardware: Predominantly palladium; select examples with Permabrass and other finishes appear (documented on Candy lots).
Timeline & Color Waves
2011 (Spring/Summer): Launch wave featuring high‑chroma tones—Kiwi, Lime, Bleu Céleste, Rose Tyrien, and Bleu Électrique—plus supporting classics like Tosca and Etain. [oai_citation:5‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
2012 (Fall): Second wave introduced more tempered hues: Jaune d’Or, Rose Jaipur, Brique, and Rouge Casaque, continuing the Epsom + chèvre bi‑color formula. [oai_citation:6‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
Quick Reference: Documented Candy Pairings (Examples)
Model | Exterior | Interior / Contrast | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Birkin 35 | Rouge Casaque (Epsom) | Blue Thalassa (Chèvre) | Candy B35 with Permabrass documented at Christie’s (□P 2012). |
Birkin 35 | Mykonos / White (Clemence, “Eclat”) | Mykonos + White chèvre interior | Pre‑Candy bi‑color reference (2011 Eclat). [oai_citation:7‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/_Hermes-Mykonos-and-White-Clemence-Eclat-Birkin-35-Palladium-Hardware-2011?utm_source=chatgpt.com) |
Kelly 32 (Retourne) | Rouge Casaque (Epsom) | Blue Thalassa (Chèvre) | Candy K32 example shown by Sotheby’s. [oai_citation:8‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags) |
Micro Kelly (15) | Kiwi (solid) | Kiwi | 2011 Micro in Candy hues, typically □O. [oai_citation:9‡Baghunter](https://baghunter.com/pages/hermes-color-guide?utm_source=chatgpt.com) |
How Candy Fits Into Hermès’ Two‑Tone History
Precedent: The Eclat (“Flash”) series immediately preceded Candy and established a bi‑color vocabulary (often in Clemence) with contrast bases/interiors/sangles. Candy refined the idea in Epsom with brighter, “confectionery” palettes. [oai_citation:10‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/_Hermes-Mykonos-and-White-Clemence-Eclat-Birkin-35-Palladium-Hardware-2011?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
Market Performance & Collectability
- 2011–2014 heat: Early Candy auctions spiked; one B35 in Rouge Casaque bi‑color achieved a standout result soon after release (rarity confirmed by the paucity of that combo at auction). [oai_citation:11‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
- 2015–2019 normalization: As more examples hit the block, averages settled in mid‑five figures depending on size, condition, and the specific pairing—mirroring broader secondary trends for seasonal editions. [oai_citation:12‡Christie's Online Only](https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/luxury-handbags-accessories/rose-jaipur-gold-epsom-leather-candy-kelly-bag-58/6896?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
- Today: Documented Candy pieces continue to trade at premiums when in sought‑after sizes (B25/K28) or rare combos (e.g., Rouge Casaque pairings). Recent dealer/auction write‑ups still highlight demand for top colorways. [oai_citation:13‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
Rarity & Desirability—A Practical Tiering
- Tier 1 (Hardest): Candy Kelly 28 and Birkin 25 in high‑saturation exteriors (e.g., Rose Tyrien, Bleu Électrique), pristine sets with full accessories. [oai_citation:14‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
- Tier 2: Candy Kelly 32/35 and Birkin 30/35 in rarer bi‑color pairings (e.g., Rouge Casaque/Blue Thalassa; limited Permabrass).
- Tier 3: Candy pieces in more subdued exteriors (e.g., Etain, Brique, Jaune d’Or) or heavier wear; still collectible due to the edition’s historical importance. [oai_citation:15‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
- Micros (2011 solid “Candy” hues): Not bi‑color but spiritually linked; desirability tracks color, stamp (□O), and completeness. [oai_citation:16‡Baghunter](https://baghunter.com/pages/hermes-color-guide?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
Authentication & Buying Notes
- Blind stamps: Expect □O (2011) and □P (2012); check that bi‑color mapping (interior, sangles’ reverse) matches known Candy logic. [oai_citation:17‡Baghunter](https://baghunter.com/pages/hermes-color-guide?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
- Leather & tone: Epsom’s fine emboss should be crisp; Candy hues are notably vivid. Interiors should read correctly in chèvre with consistent stitch/edge work. [oai_citation:18‡Sothebys.com](https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/hermes-candy-collection-limited-edition-birkin-and-kelly-bags)
- Hardware: Finish should match listing notes (most palladium; some Permabrass/other variants documented).
- Paper trail: Box, dust bags, clochette set, raincoat, and a period‑correct receipt/consignor provenance meaningfully support value.
Styling & Care (Collector Practical)
- Rotation: Epsom holds structure beautifully; rotate to minimize corner wear on Candy B35/K35. Light color interiors show scuffs less than exteriors.
- Display: Avoid direct light (UV can mute Rose Tyrien/Lime over many years); store stuffed, upright, unclasped.
- Refurbish caution: Dye touch‑ups on Epsom can darken panel tone—prefer conservation over recoloring to retain collectability.
Collector shorthand: Think of Candy as the moment Hermès proved high‑saturation color theory could live permanently on the icons—without sacrificing structure or heritage. When in doubt, buy the best example you can find in the size they’ll always carry.
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