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Rare Hermès · Selected by Jane
Hermès Kelly Bijou Précieux 18K Rose Gold Diamond Chain Mail Necklace
$75,000.00
Hermès Kelly Bijou Précieux 18K Rose Gold Diamond Chain Mail Necklace
The Kelly silhouette translated into high jewelry. Designed by Pierre Hardy for Hermès Haute Bijouterie, the Kelly Bijou Précieux constructs the bag form from 18K rose gold chain mail, cotte de mailles, a mesh of interlocking gold wire that drapes and collapses like fabric rather than holding rigid structure. The body moves; the hardware does not.
The rigid elements, the handle, flap, sangles and turnlock plate, are cast in solid 18K rose gold and set with 132 diamonds totaling approximately 1.64 carats: 130 round brilliant-cut stones lining the hardware components, and two larger brilliant-cut diamonds accenting the closure. VS1 clarity, G color. The turnlock functions and the bag opens to a small interior. Suspended from an adjustable sautoir chain with a toggle clasp, wearable as a necklace or detached as a bag charm.
Condition: 1 – Pristine
Year: 2023
Material: 18K Rose Gold (Au 750)
Gemstones: 132 Diamonds, approx. 1.64 ct total (VS1/G)
Includes: Box, Outer Box, Gem Booklet, Polishing Cloth, Care Cards
Size: 4 × 3 × 1.5 cm | 1.6" × 1.2" × 0.6"
Collector's Insight: The Précieux line sits above the sterling silver Kelly Bijou: rose gold construction with diamond setting rather than silver without stones. The chain mail technique applies textile logic to precious metal, with each link individually formed and interlocked. Pierre Hardy's design keeps the bag functional at miniature scale while the materials place it firmly in fine jewelry.
Resale Insight: Hermès high jewelry runs on different production logic than leather goods: specialized goldsmiths, micro-batch quantities, multi-month lead times. Rose gold with diamonds is the top tier of the Kelly Bijou range, and these pieces trade as jewelry rather than as accessories, with valuations tied to metal content, diamond quality and Hermès provenance.
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Condition, defined +
Every piece is graded on the JaneFinds five-tier scale: 1 Pristine, 2 Excellent, 3 Very Good, 4 Good, 5 Vintage, Well-Loved. Each tier is defined in writing in The Condition Guide.
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