Hermès Hardware
Discover every Hermès hardware finish — Gold, Palladium, Rose Gold, PVD, Guilloché, Diamond, and more. A JaneFinds collector’s guide to rarity, history, and value.
Hermès Hardware Finishes: Gold, Palladium & Beyond
Gold or Palladium? Many collectors pledge loyalty to one, but Hermès hardware goes far beyond that classic split. From rare Guilloché to modern Rose Gold and the legendary Diamond settings, here’s the clear, collector‑first guide to every finish that matters.
PVD (So Black)
The So Black era that marked Jean‑Paul Gaultier’s departure is now legendary. PVD‑coated hardware delivers the inky, all‑black look—and it can scratch irreparably. Since then, Hermès has used it sparingly, notably on the highly collectible Midnight Faubourg Birkin.
Ruthenium
Debuted on Millennium Moonlight Kellys (2000), with a core run c. 2004–2007. The dark gunmetal tone pairs with lizard, shiny croc/box, and tri‑color Togo editions from the period—hallmarks of early‑2000s connoisseurship.
Permabrass
Champagne‑gold tone launched with 2011 Club Birkins, later used on Ghillies, Grand Marriage, Flag, Grizzly, and select Candy combos. Since 2017, it’s largely Special Order only—read: scarce by design.
Rose Gold
Introduced in 2018, prized for its warm pink tone. Still rare—roughly ~5% of the secondary market—and typically trades at a premium over classic Gold and Palladium.
Guilloché
Among the rarest finishes. Guilloché features a jewelry‑grade diamond‑pattern engraving that subtly catches light. Most visible 2012–2014 on Pochettes, Kelly Cuts, and select Birkins/Kellys in Tadelakt (Black, Argile, Bleu de Prusse, Gris Perle). Earlier uses (c. 2003–2005) include colorful Kelly Kellys—and the only period Gold Guilloché appeared.
Brushed Hardware
Now most associated with HSS Special Orders, Brushed Palladium/Gold adds a soft, matte sophistication. It has also surfaced across limited editions over the last two decades—Denim Ghillies (2013), Chambray Toile Kellys (2014), Cascade Birkins, Dalmatian pieces, and certain Matte Croc with Toile interiors. Brushed Gold outside SO remains exceptionally scarce.
Diamond Hardware
The pinnacle. Diamond Birkins/Kellys feature nearly 10 carats of VVS F diamonds and ~80g of 18k gold in a 35cm configuration. Typically white gold (with rarer yellow gold or sapphire‑set variants). Extends to Kelly Cut, Pochette, Constance, Égée, and Médor. Diamond Himalayans sit atop the market hierarchy.
Trends & Collector Insights
Gold and Palladium remain the timeless anchors. Rose Gold and Permabrass signal modern taste with scarcity. Guilloché and Brushed options speak to craftsmanship and restraint. At the summit, Diamond hardware sets records and defines peak collectability. In short: hardware choice is as strategic as leather, color, or size.
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